What to do in Shanghai: the craft travel guide
Writer Skye Mo gives her insider tips on the city, along with artist Lin Fanglu, winner of the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize 2021, and editor Yuan Yue, an expert in Chinese craft.
Visit
This former glass factory on the northeast edge of Shanghai is now a place to discover glass-making secrets from the past to now. It has more than 4,000 items, from ancient glass beads to artworks conceived with artificial intelligence software Midjourney. You can see works by the likes of Stanislav Libenský, Lino Tagliapietra, and El Ultimo Grito, and afterwards pay a visit to the Radiance Theatre for some interactive glass-blowing performances.
685 Changjiang W Rd, Baoshan, Shanghai
Artist Lin Fanglu recommends this gallery located in the famous Yifeng Tower, within walking distance of Shanghai's famous Bund area. ‘Art+ Gallery was established in 2007 by four foreign friends but almost exclusively represents Chinese artists,’ she says. ‘It doesn’t just showcase art, it’s more of a stage for artists to showcase themselves. The space is exquisite, you can feel their love and respect of Chinese art intuitively.’
No.99 East Beijing Road, Unit L207, Huangpu District, Shanghai
Hangzhou, only a 20-minute bullet train ride away from Shanghai, is renowned for its picturesque scenery and silk heritage. Rooted in the area’s vernacular is this library, the first in China to focus on traditional crafts and materials. Created by PINWU Design Studio in 2015, it showcases detailed research into individual materials such as bamboo, silk, copper and paper, as well as regional craftsmanship and traditions. Its most recent weaving exhibit was unmissable; over 700 weaving specimens, tools, research notes, and items were presented.
Dongwu Hall, Qingshancun Village, Huanghu Town, Yuhang District, Hangzhou
Also in Hangzhou is the China Academy of Art’s craft museum, housed in a building designed by Kengo Kuma that’s a poetic reflection on the regional landscape and architecture. The museum’s collection has many ethnic and folk crafts including woodworking, weaving, dyeing, and shadow puppet-making. It’s a place that blends modern civilisation and traditional lifestyle philosophies, while furthering craft and folk art academia and research.
353 Xiangshan Village, CCA Xiangshan Campus, Xihu District, Hangzhou
Folk Art China. Female Red Series Exhibition at the Crafts Museum, China Academy of Art in 2018 Oriental Bamboo exhibition at the Crafts Museum, China Academy of Art in 2018 Lin Fanglu, winner of the Loewe Craft Prize, 2021
Columbia Circle
Columbia Circle is a 1920s clubhouse with a mosaic-lined pool, extended with a villa designed by legendary Hungarian architect Lazlo Hudec in 1930. Dutch architecture practice OMA turned this historically protected complex into a mixed-use development in 2016, converting the courtyard into a prominent and much-hyped public space. It’s now a popular hub for many creative businesses, shops and restaurants. On your visit I recommend grabbing a cooling drink at Lenbach Poolside.
1262 West Yan’an Road, Changning District, Shanghai
This early 20th-century mansion rises from lush gardens on one of the city’s prime historic streets. It’s an eclectic villa with a puzzle of different styles. Rooms have Art Nouveau dado, Edwardian floor tiles, cloisonné ceiling decoration – how they work in harmony is a wonder in itself. Fondazione Prada embarked on a six-year renovation of the villa to make it into a new cultural centre for Shanghai for 2017; visiting its exhibitions, talks and screenings are a great way to experience this amazing space.
186 Shaanxi North Road, Jing’an District, Shanghai
Prada Rong Zhai, 2022. Photo: JJYPHOTO, courtesy Prada Jisifang Panlong Store by Neri&Hu. Photo by Pedro Pegenaute
Shop
Citic Press editor Yuan Yue, an expert in Chinese craft, recommends this minimalist boutique designed by architect Neri&Hu. ‘The aesthetic intuition and attention to details are impeccable,’ she says. Jisifang started as a fabric supplier to brands including Muji and Margaret Howell but now has its own line of garments made from high quality natural materials. In the middle of the store is a hut in white oak showing its natural grain and colour standing on a floor of handmade ceramic tiles.
SD103, Panlong Tiandi Cross Street, No. 8, Lane 123, Panding Road, Qingpu District, Shanghai
This Shanghai-based fashion brand takes its name from the Tibetan words for 'slow down’ and insists on using eco-friendly materials like organic cotton, wool and linen for its wares. Its product range includes vegetable dyes, recyclable buttons and biodegradable packaging. Buying one of Klee Klee’s Dulong blankets, made with a community of minority ethnic Dulong women, supports their practices and livelihoods.
Columbia Circle, 1262 West Yan’an Road, Changning District, Shanghai
Wan Gallery
Wan means bowl in Chinese, and it’s the only thing this highly curated shop shows and sells. Since 2017, Wan Gallery has been the urban shop window for dedicated designer-makers who live in inaccessible places like Jingdezhen. Compared to exquisite porcelain, owner Zhao Min prefers pottery bowls that are more mundane. Take extra time to find this place. With no sign, it’s easy to miss the gallery’s humble entrance.
No.66 Yong Kang Rd, Shanghai
This refined furniture brand, founded by designer Gao Guqi, has collections in wood, leather and stone that take inspiration from nature and Chinese culture. Near the affluent Xuhui shopping district, its showroom feels like a contemporary urban living room with the essence of a Shanghai villa from the 1940s. By appointment only.
No. 370 Wukang Road, Xuhui District, Shanghai
Stay
Hotels in the House Collective are known for impeccable service and tasteful design. The Middle House is the Shanghai location, designed by architect Piero Lissoni in 2018 to blend modern Italian craftsmanship and Shanghainese vernacular. You can find a selection of interesting work here from both international and local artists. Even the standard rooms are generous at more than 500sqft; each has a beautiful cityscape view.
No. 366 Shi Men Yi Road, Shanghai
Like London’s Hotel Café Royal or New York’s The Plaza, Shanghai’s legendary place to stay is the Peace Hotel. This building from 1926 was once known as the ‘number one skyscraper in the Far East’, having hosted Queen Elizabeth II, Charlie Chaplin and George Bernard Shaw in its time. Situated on The Bund, this place is filled with fascinating stories and has witnessed a huge amount of change. A faithful renovation by current owner Fairmont was based on archival photos from the 1920s. It’s now a charming place that offers modern hospitality.
No 20, East Nanjing Road, The Bund and North Bund, Shanghai
Metropolitan Seclusive Life in Wukang Road
Shanghai's Bund often gets the glory, but there’s a gentler side to the city in its former French concession area. This hotel from 1918 sits in a popular tourist area among many historic sites, tree-lined streets and small cafes. The hotel is made up of four three-storey villas and has a tranquil feel that will make you feel right at home. I recommend the rooms with a balcony.
No. 292 WuKang Road, Xuhui, Shanghai
Onion Soup served at Polux by Paul Pairet Egg mimosa served at Polux by Paul Pairet
Eat
Fu 1088
If you are looking for a local specialty, Fu 1088 offers a dining experience that’s full of old Shanghai charm. Located in a 1920s townhouse with traditionally furnished private rooms, this restaurant serves even the pickiest of locals. Shanghai food is famous for its seasonal delicacies and sweet, rich sauces. Freshwater delight is what this place is known for, its river shrimps, grass carp and Chinese mitten crabs are unmissable.
375 Zhenning Road, Jingan, Shanghai
Another recommendation by Lin Fanglu: ‘When you’re tired of shopping and want a glass of wine with some simple food, this familiar and casual restaurant makes a lovely choice. As you can tell by the name, Paul Pairet is the French-born and Shanghai-raised chef with three Michelin stars behind this bistro. If he offers you onion soup, duck confit, or steak frites, then go for it.’ Fanglu’s personal favourite is its French Toast.
No. 5, Xintiandi Beili, Lane 181, Taicang Road, Huangpu, Shanghai
Fu He Hui
If you’re a vegetarian, the legendary Fu He Hui should be the first restaurant you try (that’s in all of China, not just Shanghai). It has a distinctive zen and sense of ritual embedded in its dining experience. With a seasonal menu, fresh local ingredients, and a skillful combination of traditional Chinese flavourings with brave creativity, this is a place for craft lovers. Each dish is impeccably presented and paired with carefully chosen tea. You’ll leave thinking that three hours here is not enough.
1037 Yuyuan Road, Changning, Shanghai
Hot Pot Sun
Known as the Hermès of hotpot in Shanghai, this restaurant brings a fine dining setting to this particularly Chinese way of eating. Hotpots are all about choice and personal preference. You choose the type of soup and the fresh ingredients (meat, poultry, seafood or veggies), which are cooked on your dining table. At Hot Pot Sun, the waiter helps you through the complicated dining ritual by serving you all the way, and to ensure everything is cooked to perfection.
No 376 Huang Pi South Road, Xintiadi South, Shanghai
